Monday, April 26, 2010

Tasting Morocco (and Paris again)



And more than a month later. . . here I am again with the longest post ever. I've got a pile of recipes and photos to share with you all, but I've gotta start with tidbits from my trip to Morocco and Paris, which were full of succulent treats.

Although I did pass by the Ladurée stand at CDG on my way to Morocco, I saved my Parisian macaron experience for the days in Paris that followed the week in Morocco.



Like Ladurée's selection of macarons, the food in Morocco was vibrantly colorful and diversely spiced; I find that the mix of 42 spices that I brought home from Fez characterizes an approach to Moroccan food that creatively melds a whole variety of flavors (cinnamon, fruits, and savory together, etc.).

The most common food we encountered on the trip was the tagine (or tajine), which can best be described as a stew - really any mix of cooked food, whether veggie, meat, fruit, nuts, or any combination thereof. While most of our travel group grew weary of tagines, one can't help but admire the diversity of offerings: lamb with prunes and almonds, chicken with preserved lemons and olives, vegetables (carrots, squash, etc., with a ton of butter!), and kefta (beef meatballs with an egg cooked in it and lots of chili powder).











We were also lucky enough to have a few meals prepared for us at a center where we were volunteering; they went out of their way to make a delicious couscous for us (even though couscous is traditionally eaten only on Fridays for the Muslim holy day), as well as a lovely chicken with preserved lemon. The bread that accompanied the meals was a yeasted flatbread, called khobz in Arabic, that was meant to be used to scoop up the food - although they provided us with forks.

A few of the Moroccan ladies showed me how to eat couscous by using this technique of taking a handful of it, and forming it into a ball with one hand by sort of rolling the ball in a motion back and forth, almost like one's hand is a whiffle ball catcher. They then threw the balls into their mouths - not something I was able to accomplish, but fascinating!









Yeah, I went to McDonald's once in Morocco - I am always curious to see what they do differently in different countries. Here it was the McArabia, a sandwich on flatbread spiced with cumin and coriander; not bad, after all.





Paris brought me to beautiful things of a more familiar, but still lovely, nature. Like my last trip to France, it was a few days of bakery bliss, with a couple gorgeous meals to even out the sweets. I may have OD'd a tad on sugar, since I've been uncharacteristically avoiding it since my return, but everything I had was amazing.





I had to visit the specialty baking store G. Detou after reading rave reviews of it on Chocolate and Zucchini and David Lebovitz's blog; I have to admit that I spent more money there than anywhere in Paris in order to buy all the chocolates I wanted my family to try. Because it was the week before Easter, they had some fabulous chocolate eggs filled with almond paste, plus their normal selection of high quality chocolates.

The savory star of my Paris time was this gorgeous, gorgeous trout. I'm not even that much of a fish person, but this was quite tender and, well, soaked in browned butter. I've been reminded since my trip that one of the first meals Julia Child eats in Julie and Julia is a fish cooked in butter, and if it was anything like this one, it absolutely deserved the raptures that Julia went into over it. I sopped up every drop of that butter with the fish and cleaned that plate dry. Yes, that is the butter all over the plate.





The fish was followed by a huge crème brûlée - I couldn't even finish it since I was so full of the fish (and butter).





On top of the deliciousness of the trout, the meal was a treat because I got to eat it at the oldest café in Paris, Le Procope. Perhaps Voltaire or Benjamin Franklin enjoyed this same fish dish years ago? I highly recommend a meal here - for a nice sit-down lunch, it's a good deal for the afternoon formula menu.





I was reminded on this trip that the Left Bank is really my favorite area in the city; this may have something to do with the fact that the whole district is full of amazing bakeries and bookshops, two of my favorite things. I love the pedestrian bridge that crosses over from the Louvre to L'Institut de France on the Left Bank; it's Le Pont des Beaux Arts (the Fine Arts Bridge), so there's always something interesting going on there, like these random locks.





The Left Bank is also home to my still-preferred baker/bakery, Pierre Hermé. His were the first macarons to pass my lips, and they are still the best two years later, even after I have tried them at other shops in Paris, all over L.A. and San Francisco, and made them myself. On this trip I remembered that one must still be picky about bakeries even in Paris, since I picked up a very mediocre macaron at a beautiful and fragrant bakery called Gérard Mulot in St. Germain. Both their macaron and dark chocolate tart were disappointing.

On the other hand, Pierre Hermés' mille feuilles infiniment caramel (infinitely caramel Napoleon pastry) made my day. Wonderful caramel flavor all throughout the cream, and between the pastry layers, and on top. Yum. I also bought the macarons pictured with the Eiffel Tower above at PH, and they were as tender, lightly chewy, and well-flavored as I remembered.







Also on the Left Bank, next door to artisanal bread bakery Poilâne, is Cuisine de Bar, a restaurant that makes tartines (open-faced sandwiches) with Poilâne bread. On David Lebovitz's recommendation, I ordered the tartine with garlic mayonnaise (very heavy, as you can see!), roasted chicken, capers, chives, and sardines. While I could have done without the fishiness of the sardines, the tartine was very good, as was the simple salad it came with. To finish the meal I ordered a coffee, which was accompanied by a little edible shortbread spoon to be nibbled upon after stirring in the sugar and dipping in the coffee. The service was great, so if you're looking for a teeny little restaurant to have lunch in alone without being too conspicuous, this is a good choice.










My final fave on the Left Bank was the Rodin Museum, which was another good memory I confirmed on this trip. I have always enjoyed museums that feature one primary artist, since they are smaller and more approachable than places like the Louvre. Rodin's (and Camille Claudel's, also featured here) works of the human body always strike me as beautiful and full of feeling, whether they be in bronze or marble, so this was an aesthetically worthwhile stop.









On the other end of town, in the 11th arrondissement, I took my final meal in Paris at West Country Girl, another Dave Leb recommendation. The name of the crêperie refers to its Breton-style crêpes and galettes (from the west of France). Everything was made fresh there, including the amazing caramel sauce. This was another good lunch deal - 9 Euros for a savory crêpe (I got the crêpe du jour with ham, goat cheese, and chives), a sweet crêpe (salted butter caramel sauce!), and some light cider.







West Country Girl is not that far from the Père Lachaise cemetery, which I visited for the first time. I made the obligatory stop at Oscar Wilde's lipstick-littered grave, and otherwise enjoyed the unique vistas of the cemetery as I searched for other famous people (mostly to no avail).







A completely wonderful trip to Morocco and Paris - and the people I spent time with were absolutely the crème de la crème! I hope you feel inspired by this little stroll through my travels.

Thursday, March 11, 2010

Super Easy Toffee



Friends, this is for any of you who also are entering finals week or any other time-pressured season that requires sugar consumption. This is an incredibly easy, fast, and reliable recipe. I could eat an entire pan of it myself...not to give away my stress eating habits...

I found a simple recipe online recently when I was looking for a way to use up the big bag of graham cracker crumbs in my kitchen, and to that recipe I added chocolate and fleur de sel and took away a baking step - hopefully making it simpler and better!

Interestingly, it actually calls for margarine for half of the fat element, which cuts down on the saturated fat; I used the all-natural Earth Balance (non-whipped), and it worked great. I tried using all margarine one time, since I was out of butter, but that gave it a strange aftertaste. Of course I still ate it, but again, it's finals season.

One of the best things about this toffee is that it isn't too hard when you bite into it, but the other great thing is that it is not a touchy recipe; while other sugar-boiling recipes (especially caramel) can be quite finicky, this one has come out just right every time I have made it. Which has been quite a few times in the last 2 weeks.

The graham cracker crumbs keep it from getting too sweet, and give it a nice variation in texture. Feel free to mix things up - add/replace a layer (coconut? more nuts?), remove the chocolate, etc. Just use the sugar-boiling process as a base for the candy you build.

And please, please be careful every time you work with sugar on the stove top, because it can get VERY hot and it's very easy to burn yourself.




Super Easy Toffee

1/2 C margarine
1/2 C unsalted butter (1 stick)
1 C light brown sugar
1 tsp fleur de sel/large grain sea salt
1 C chopped raw pecans (toast if desired)
3 oz. graham cracker crumbs
1/4 or more bittersweet chocolate chips

1. Melt the margarine and butter in a medium saucepan on the stove top. Once melted, stir in the sugar, salt, and pecans. Time it once it starts to boil for 3 minutes, stirring constantly and keeping it at a medium boil. Set aside after the 3 minutes.
2. Spread out the graham cracker crumbs in a 9"x13" cake pan in an even layer. Sprinkle the chocolate chips over the crumbs. Add as many chocolate chips as you want, but don't let them become more than a single layer of chips since you want them to melt.
3. Spoon the sugar mixture over the chocolate and crumbs as evenly as possible; it's okay if the toffee doesn't reach the sides of the pan, but try to smooth it out close to the sides so that it doesn't get too thick. It won't look pretty, but it WILL taste good once it's cooled!
4. Let cool, then break into pieces and enjoy!

Tuesday, March 9, 2010

German Chocolate Cupcakes




This is the best cake from scratch I've ever made. Seriously. To me, it has the exact texture that a light cake should have (as opposed to those cakes that you want to be dense or have a larger crumb - carrot cake, almond meal cakes, and such). I would even describe the texture as tender, while holding shape well and having good flavor. And it's more chocolaty than most German chocolate cakes, which makes me an even bigger fan.





I would attribute its texture to the buttermilk and the whipped egg whites that you fold into the cake flour-based batter, and its flavor to the melted chocolate AND cocoa powder that you add in (see this post for a helpful explanation of the differences between Dutch processed and natural cocoa powder). Thanks to David Lebovitz for posting this great recipe!

I would use my mom's traditional coconut pecan frosting recipe rather than Dave Leb's chocolate version, because hers has this buttery flavor and thick consistency that you just can't beat. I haven't tried making this batter into a layer cake, but it's worth trying. This cake with that frosting is a dynamite combination!





German Chocolate Cupcakes
makes 12

2 oz (60 g) bittersweet or semisweet chocolate (less than 60%), chopped
1/4 C (60 ml) boiling water or coffee
8 T (4 ounces, 115 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature
3/4 C (150 g) sugar
2 large eggs, at room temperature, separated
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
1 C plus 1 T (150 g) cake flour (not self-rising)
1 T unsweetened natural cocoa powder
1/2 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 C (125 ml) buttermilk,* at room temperature


1. Preheat the open to 350ºF. Line a muffin tin with 12 cupcake liners.


2. Pour the boiling water or coffee over the chocolate, and stir until melted. Set aside.


3. In the bowl of a stand mixer, or by hand, beat the butter and sugar until light and fluffy.


4. Add the egg yolks and mix until thoroughly incorporated. Then mix in the vanilla and the melted chocolate.


5. Whisk together the cake flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, and salt. Stir half of the dry ingredients into the wet mixture, then add the buttermilk, then the remaining dry ingredients, mixing just until blended.


6. In a clean, dry bowl, whip the two egg whites until stiff, then fold one-third of them in to the chocolate batter, then the rest. Fold just into there are no streaks of white remaining, but don't overfold.


7. Divide the batter between the muffin cups and bake for about 25 minutes, until the batter feels just set in the center. Remove from the oven, then let cool for a few minutes.


Once cool enough to handle, remove the cupcakes from the muffin tin and let cool on a wire rack completely before frosting.





Coconut Pecan Frosting

1 C evaporated milk
1 C sugar
3 egg yolks
1/2 C butter
1 tsp vanilla
1 1/3 C angel flake coconut
1 C chopped pecans

Combine in a medium saucepan. Cook and stir over medium heat until thickened, about 12 minutes (if it's taking longer, turn up the heat slightly).

Add coconut and pecans.

Beat until thick enough to spread. Makes 2 1/2 C.





*David Lebovitz adds this note: For those of you who can't get buttermilk, you can use a similar quantity of whole milk plain yogurt or sour cream, Or mix 1 1/2 teaspoons of vinegar or lemon juice with 1/2 cup (125 ml) whole milk and let it sit 10 minutes.

Saturday, March 6, 2010

Compost Cookies, aka Amnesty Cookies



I suppose the name of these cookies is somewhat along the same lines as the Garbage Burrito - a whole unpredictable mess of things is thrown in, but the result in the end is the better for it. This recipe has been all the rage online in the last few weeks, so I thought I'd better post my outcome quickly. It is the famous recipe from Momofuku Milk Bar, whose pastry chef invented and, I assume, named these cookies. I personally avoided telling people their name lest they find it unappetizing, but these cookies sold themselves. See David Lebovitz's post to see why he renamed his Amnesty Cookies - less gross imagery, but perhaps a little too political for me.

I don't have anything really new to say about the recipe, so I'm just going to jump on the bandwagon and tell you to MAKE IT. They were incredible, I could not stop eating them, and even when they got smooshed to death in my bag, my coworkers gobbled them up.

One of the funnest things about these cookies is the fact that you can pretty much throw any junk food into them that you want, and they will end up amazing. I ran into some Easter candy at the store the other day, so I chopped up some pink bunny Peeps (I know, I know) and threw in some egg-shaped M&Ms, alongside some Lay's classic potato chips and some pretzel sticks. The salty-sweet combination is killer, so don't shy away from the savory snacks. Don't worry, the potato chip crumbs basically melt away and just add flavor.

The other unique thing about this recipe is the fact that you beat the butter-sugar-corn syrup-eggs-vanilla part of the batter for 10 minutes, which dissolves the sugar granules and churns out a fabulously silky batter that maintains its texture even after the dry ingredients and mix-ins are added. I'm going to try a chocolate version of this cookie that replaces some of the flour with cocoa powder, and my instincts tell me that it's going to work out well.

As you prepare to make these, beware that once the batter is portioned out onto the baking pans (for which I highly recommend parchment paper and a 3 T scoop with a scraping blade to portion out the batter), the pans need to sit in the refrigerator for at least an hour before baking. The batter will not hold together if you bake them from room temperature. Even after refrigeration they spread out a lot, and after puffing up in the oven they fall flat when cool.

I love these so much that I'm excited for you to make them! Enjoy making the recipe your own with your mix-in choices!





Momofuku's Compost Cookies

Taken from The Amateur Gourmet, which has great step-by-step photos.

1 C unsalted butter
1 C granulated sugar
3/4 C light brown sugar
1 T corn syrup (optional, if used will make the batter shiner)
1 tsp vanilla extract
2 large eggs
1 3/4 C all purpose flour
2 tsps baking powder
1 tsp baking soda
2 tsps Kosher salt
1 1/2 C sweet snacks (chocolate chips, candies, etc.)
1 1/2 C salty snack foods (crushed chips, pretzels, etc.)

1. Line two cookie sheets with parchment paper.
2. Cream the butter, sugars, and corn syrup together in a stand mixer with the paddle attachment (the whip attachment or a hand mixer would whip in too much air). Beat them at medium-high speed for 2-3 minutes until fluffy and pale yellow. Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber scraper.
3. At a lower speed, add the eggs and vanilla. Beat at a medium-high speed for 10 minutes. The mixture will become pale in color and almost double in size.
4. After the 10 minutes, at a low speed add the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt, mixing just for 45-60 seconds until all the dry ingredients are just incorporated.
5. Add your sweet snacks for 30-45 seconds, followed by your salty snacks, all at a low speed. Do not overmix, just mix until these ingredients are evenly distributed in the batter.
6. Portion the dough onto the cookie sheets (as you can see, they will run together if you put 12 on a pan!). Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for a minimum of one hour, maximum 1 week.
7. Heat the oven to 400 degrees. When the oven is ready, remove one cookie sheet at a time from the refrigerator and bake for 9 to 11 minutes. Check them at 9 minutes to see if the middle of the cookie is browned to the same color as the edge of the cookie; if the middle is still pale and doughy, leave in the oven for the additional minutes.
8. Cool the cookies completely on the pan. Store in air-tight containers.



Thursday, February 18, 2010

Adaptable Icings: Buttercream and Mascarpone Frostings




I accidentally had a cupcake for lunch on Valentine's Day; it wasn't planned, it just was there in front of me at noon, and I thought "I can't just Not Eat that cupcake." So I ate it. Which reminded me that I made all of these cupcakes last weekend for a friend's birthday...




She had requested a variety of frostings - chocolate, cream cheese, and vanilla bean - so I decided go on a spurt of cupcake creativity. The kind of spurt where I make 6 different flavors, using a basic cake and frosting as a foundation. I honestly started out with about 10 flavors in mind, which I whittled down to 6, which finally became 5 in the absence of key ingredients and extra time.




This time I went with my favorite mascarpone chocolate cupcake recipe, minus the mixed-in chocolate chips. For one of the flavors I mixed in some spice, and for one I added some white chocolate chips, but the rest I left plain chocolate. And then came the icings:

Vanilla Bean Buttercream Frosting
This is really just a basic buttercream with a vanilla bean scraped in.



Cream together:
1 C (2 sticks) salted butter
1 tsp vanilla
the seeds of one vanilla bean scraped into the bowl

Add:
1 lb (about 4 C) powdered sugar
2 T milk or cream or soy milk





To make this into a chocolate buttercream, add:

1 T unsweetened cocoa powder
4 oz melted dark chocolate (bittersweet chocolate chips work fine)




To make this into a cinnamon chocolate icing (think Mexican chocolate, with cinnamon mixed into the batter as well!) add:

1 tsp ground cinnamon


Mascarpone White Chocolate Frosting
For the remaining cupcakes, I made a mascarpone icing, similar to cream cheese but a little less sour. Together with the chocolate cupcakes that had white chocolate chips mixed in, it had the effect of a chocolate cheesecake. I split off some of this frosting to also make a raspberry mascarpone icing, for which I filled the chocolate cupcakes with raspberry jam. To fill cupcakes, cut a cone out of the top of the cupcake, into the middle of the cake, and then lop off the tip of the cone, fill the space with jam, and replace the top of the cake.



Cream together:
1/4 C (1/2 stick) salted butter
1/4 C mascarpone cheese
1 tsp vanilla

Then add:
2 C powdered sugar
3 oz. melted white chocolate chips



To make this a raspberry mascarpone white chocolate icing (shall we just call this "raspberry" for short?), add:

several tablespoons of good raspberry jam (to taste)


When making these frostings, cream the butter/mascarpone and vanilla well together first, until it's getting fluffy, and then after slowly encorporating the powdered sugar and other additions, beat it long enough to make it light and smooth. You want it to make voluptuous cupcakes, n'est-ce pas?

It's always my feeling that food should be decorated to look like it tastes, so I encourage you to find creative ways of doing so - while it might seem too obvious to put white chocolate chips on top of white chocolate frosting, I like the way the textures and shapes look together. And hey, you know what you're eating when you pick it up.

Be forewarned that the amounts of icing produced by these recipes are not proportionate to one batch of 24 cupcakes; the vanilla bean buttercream is more than enough to frost 24, but the mascarpone icing is about enough for 12.

Bon appétit!